tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post3764413364363926626..comments2024-03-24T08:57:27.283-06:00Comments on Chasing Net Zero: Design SpecificationsShafraazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680723864772294621noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-39413603034060779802011-02-07T07:39:19.382-07:002011-02-07T07:39:19.382-07:00I cannot remember where I saw them, but there are ...I cannot remember where I saw them, but there are kits of rope or chain ladders which can be rolled and stored in a box under the emergency exit window. The ladder is anchored inside the box. When the ladder is dropped out the window, there are built-in standoffs which hold the rungs away from the wall. This allows room for your toes similar to the space under kitchen cabinets.Jim Merrithewnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-39804858381850049712011-02-05T20:51:56.833-07:002011-02-05T20:51:56.833-07:00Hello Jim,
Thanks for the lessons learned!
Her...Hello Jim,<br /><br />Thanks for the lessons learned! <br /><br />Here are my thoughts:<br /><br />1. I am hoping the Roxul packed in between the studs will be a bit of a fire retarder. I can imagine why it may travel quickly in a typical, lightly insulated building. <br /><br />2. There the plywood plates are actually 1.5" thick [2 layers of 3/4"]<br /><br />3. Yes, the open stair is a natural chimney. Part of our strategy was to use steel and LVLs for stairs and railings [non-combustible materials]. <br /><br />4. All our bedrooms are on the ground floor. This is so we can living with the view in our waking hours! And also results in a safer, more faster exit directly to the ground floor.<br /><br />5. That said, I think we'll look into investing in a rope ladder for emergency purposes from the loft and upper floors!<br /><br />Thanks again for your insights!Shafraazhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12680723864772294621noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-12767750238456573112011-02-04T16:40:22.236-07:002011-02-04T16:40:22.236-07:00I am interested in fire blocking within the walls ...I am interested in fire blocking within the walls because, when I freelanced as a photojournalist, I had to cover quite a few fires. I spoke to several firemen about how fire behaves in structures and I read about the experiences of residents who had narrow escapes. I hope the following will not freak you out. <br />Several lessons stand out. A balloon framed wall acts as a chimney. Fire blocks between levels stop the heat from rising, reducing/slowing the advancement of fire and smoke. In your case, Roxul is noncombustible, so that would impede fire spread. The 3/4 inch plates which connect the inner and outer walls would be a form of fire block. <br />Another lesson is the use of doors at the top or bottom of stairs. This also slows the spread of fire and smoke. You mentioned you will have an open stair well. This concept will help distribute the heat throughout the house, but in a fire, it will also be a chimney. <br />A couple of years ago, I read about a fire in a brand new house. The house was designed with an open concept downstairs with cathedral ceilings. The bedrooms were located in a loft overlooking the living room. An electrical short circuit ignited the Christmas tree. The homeowner said that when the smoke alarm started to wail, he exited the bedroom. He was met by a wall of smoke which was rising from the lower level. The family barely escaped. The man said his next house would have two separate floors with doors in the stairwell and a secondary, easily-accessible escape route from the upper floor.Jim Merrithewnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-85615568339317855752011-02-03T07:23:39.072-07:002011-02-03T07:23:39.072-07:00Thanks for the answers. -JimThanks for the answers. -JimJim Merrithewnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-74733163054227817762011-02-02T13:44:46.766-07:002011-02-02T13:44:46.766-07:00Hello Jim,
To answer your questions:
** Is the e...Hello Jim, <br />To answer your questions:<br /><br />** Is the exterior and internal wall 2 x 6? <br /><br />No, both are 2x4.<br /><br /><br />** Is the balloon framing continuous from the foundation to the roof? <br /><br />No. As you've noticed, we stacked one floor on top of another. <br /><br />** Did you have to install fire blocking in between the two wall assemblies? <br /><br />We are using Roxul mineral wood between interior and exterior stud walls.<br /><br />** Are you installing a vapour barrier, and where will it be in the various wall planes?<br /><br />Yes, the poly VB will be on the interior stud wall.<br /> <br />** Is the information about the roof's R value correct? My understanding is that PolyIso performs at about R6.5 per inch. 6 inches would be R39. Roxul is about R4 per inch, so 14 inches would be R56. The total is R95. Am I overestimating?<br /><br />I always account for a decrease in R value due to the wood I-Joists that also share this space. For that 14" depth, there is a wood I-joist every 16 inches on centre. This brings down the R-value. I may have under-estimated, but I'd rather be conservative.<br /><br />** I noticed the outer wall is not continuous, but appears to be one wall stood on top of another. How did you tie the outer and inner walls together for structural strength?<br />Did you have to add any other bracing to support this assembly?<br /><br />The interior and exterior 2x4 walls are tied together by two layers of 3/4" plywood plates. The outside OSB will help also to tie the floors/studs together.Shafraazhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12680723864772294621noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-47232853225445825782011-02-02T09:32:07.243-07:002011-02-02T09:32:07.243-07:00I just went back to the November postings. I notic...I just went back to the November postings. I noticed the outer wall is not continuous, but appears to be one wall stood on top of another. How did you tie the outer and inner walls together for structural strength?<br />Did you have to add any other bracing to support this assembly? - JimJim Merrithewnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-27741233246951796022011-02-02T09:14:40.474-07:002011-02-02T09:14:40.474-07:00Shafraaz, As a former photographer, I love the lig...Shafraaz, As a former photographer, I love the lighting in the latest picture. The house looks great. <br />Thanks for posting all of this info. It rounds out previous postings. The latest information also prompted some questions.<br />Could you give some more details about the wall assembly? Is the internal wall 2 x 6? Is the balloon framing continuous from the foundation to the roof? Is the exterior wall also 2 x 6? Did you have to install fire blocking in between the two wall assemblies? Are you installing a vapour barrier, and where will it be in the various wall planes? <br />Is the information about the roof's R value correct? My understanding is that PolyIso performs at about R6.5 per inch. 6 inches would be R39. Roxul is about R4 per inch, so 14 inches would be R56. The total is R95. Am I overestimating? <br />In the paragraph about the triple glazed windows, your train of thought skipped in the sentence about passive solar gain. Could you amend this. <br />Thanks - Jim.Jim Merrithewnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-61947190249431201262011-02-02T08:14:38.093-07:002011-02-02T08:14:38.093-07:00Furthermore, we have installed blocking in the woo...Furthermore, we have installed blocking in the wood exterior wall to carry the PV structure/rack system. <br /><br />On the roof, we are providing a built-up platform that penetrates the roof membrane which will be sealed. This work will happen right away.Shafraazhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12680723864772294621noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-86827603425579023052011-02-02T08:06:19.547-07:002011-02-02T08:06:19.547-07:00Hello David,
Thanks for following the blog.
We ar...Hello David,<br />Thanks for following the blog.<br /><br />We are roughing in the PV and at this point, we're likely to install a 4 kW system to provide a sunshade/awning on the south windows. Ultimately, we will want to produce about 10 kW on site. The 10 kW number is based on our Hot2000 energy model, in terms of what we will likely need to heat and power the home, as well as talking to Peter at Habitat Studio & Workshop, who has some good data on energy consumption for "netzero" homes. I also expect the prices for PV to drop considerably in the next 5 to 10 years, as production becomes more competitive, so I am hedging the investment.Shafraazhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12680723864772294621noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4533703094188189176.post-39055587872358994862011-02-01T23:24:16.728-07:002011-02-01T23:24:16.728-07:00Hi,
First off - thank you! I have been following ...Hi,<br />First off - thank you! I have been following your blog for several months now and very much appreciate your candor and willingness to share in every tiny detail of this construction. I am learning a lot!<br />I believe you mentioned in a previous blog that you are holding off on the PV installation until a later date. Is this in part to get an accurate read on the homes consumption before sizing up the requirements for generation? Also, have you installed 'stand-offs' of any kind for a future PV installation down the road or is the plan to cut into the membrane and attach to the structure later? Thanks,<br />DavidDavid Voneschhttp://www.skyfireenergy.comnoreply@blogger.com